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Dylan Holderman

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  1. i took a look at your link and i agree that the price is right but it wouldn't give me the warm and fuzzies if i bought a part that i know i can make without to much trouble, even if it ends up being more work in the long run.
  2. NoterMan i'm glad you mentioned that the right taper reams can be had for $15-$20 stewmac starts at $75-$80 i went hunting around on amazon, takes a little digging but i found one marketed for violin pegs for $20
  3. thanks for the advice and encouragement, i'll make a new post once i have a sketch done up for the second one. if this works here's a short video with sound.
  4. sorry i ghosted there for a bit, the tuning when't well i got it tuned to DAA and felt happy there. i'm trying to figure out how to upload a short video/sound sample with my phone, once i do i'll post it here. and i have a couple questions for my second build, i want to make a teardrop profile with the same VSL how wide would you guys recommend i make it? and i'm planning on making friction pegs and a scroll head for it, do you think pear wood is hard enough for the pegs? or should i dig out something denser?
  5. it broke right by the tuning peg, i have all the strings off ( i labeled them as i took them off i think they could be used on a slighter shorter VSL instrument ) and i'm going to try tuning by ear with the sound samples as best i can before checking it with the app.
  6. ah i see what you're saying about tuning backwards lol, and thank you for the pdf i'll make sure to read through it before i do more to the dulcimer. just a quick clarification though, it was one of the .012 strings that broke when i tried tuning it to a higher D. right now the remaining .012 string is sitting at a G EDIT: and i'm going to replace the strings in the morning i only have about half a turn on each one, glad i bought two sets at the start.
  7. i dug the package back out of my shop trashcan and the strings are .012 .012 .014 .022 so thickness seems alright, rechecked the VSL and its right on 27". when i tried tuning up one of them broke leaving me one each of .012 .014 .022 so still playable putting some tension on the remaining strings and adjusting from there got me to G (.012) D (.014) D (.022) which at least sounds clean. there is also every possibility that i'm not using the app/clip on tuner correctly (no musical experience) i also just looked at the head again and i'm thinking i didnt wrap enough string
  8. alright i thought i was done and was going to post some "finished" pics but the strings don't seem to have enough tension, i'm not getting a clear open note that "i" associate with dulcimers. even though my clip on tuner and my cellphone app both say its in tune. any thoughts?
  9. thanks i'll make a post in the beginners playing area once i get the strings on it, there seems to be no shortage of tutorials on YouTube. what string action should i make it? the common recommendation i see is 1/16(or a dime) at the first fret and 1/8(nickle) at the last is that good for a beginner?
  10. thanks i'm going to have to learn how to play too, even if i don't play very well i feel that i should be able to use everything i make. finally got back on this and i can see the end of this build in sight. what string spacing should i use? most of the pics iv'e seen have the first and second string being close together and the third and forth farther apart, that seem right for DDAD tuning? (and DDAD seems to be one of the more common tunings?) ended up making my own nails out of some leftover 3/32 tig rod from another project. also rough cut the sides for my sec
  11. lol shows how little musical experience i have, i though ball end strings were a actual sphere on the end.
  12. already started planning number 2 lol. thanks for advice to number the instrument on the label too. how do you attach ball end strings to the brad nails?
  13. well i didn't have a cooler that i felt would be stable but i do have a bunch of random heavy pieces of steel laying around. i did a dry run before i put glue in the joint to make sure that the gaps would close up. you can't see it under the plywood but it's there! also it seems a bit hit or miss on whether dulcimer builders put a label in or not but i like the look and concept so i put one in were it can be seen through one of the main sound holes. done with archival ink and acid free paper so hopefully it doesn't fade over time. last question for the moment, what to you g
  14. that's ingenious. the flattest thing i have thats big enough for the dulcimer is my little welding table i just checked it with a straight edge, just need to go over it for any little BB's before i glue up. i have plenty of scrap i can cut up for the spacers, this whole thing is built from my buddy's scrap pile i cleaned out when i helped him move his shop. and i have a little trick that will make alignment easier, nothing new but i put a little pin in one of the end blocks lining up the carcass and soundboard, it will be completely hidden in the finished product and is so small that any
  15. thanks for the suggestion but i already cut, thinned, and re-glued it. and for the question i missed earlier everything should be around 1/8" thick. i say around because most of the final thicknessing i did with a hand plane which is a tool i am still learning, i know that the top and back boards were under size at the edges before cutting the profile be fortunately that went away and the middle doesn't look like its too thick. now on to my next problem. we've been getting a ton of rain the past couple of weeks and the body of this dulcimer has taken on a huge! back bow, i'm not sure if y
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