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Everything posted by NoterMan

  1. Another 3-stringer here. I played with 4 strings for many years. But one time I broke a doubled melody string, and noticed virtually no difference in sound volume.
  2. Glad to hear you're keeping Mount Dora alive, Dennis. If you would like a Traditional Dulcimer Techniques class for the Festival next year, drop me a note. You may remember a couple years ago when George Haggerty was scheduled to do a Trad workshop but had to cancel for emergency heart surgery -- I filled in for him...
  3. Looks like you've got another nice build underway. FWIW, these are technically NOT a dulcimer. These have a neck (fretboard) which extends beyond the body -- as do guitars, mandolins, banjos, etc. By internationally accepted definitions of musical instruments, a dulcimer has NO Neck -- no fretboard extending beyond the body. What you're making is best called a Diatonic Stick.
  4. Christian -- that's great -- we don't often see a 6 string dulcimer set up as a bass instrument. Who made it? The inlay is certainly striking at the head. Do you have full length pictures. I'll bet your standard 6 string has some serious bass/baritone depth of it's own with the doubled Middle and Bass Drone courses. FWIW, we don't normally refer to dulcimer strings as having "upper" or "lower" courses -- the dulcimer isn't held vertically like a guitar, so there is no up or down. The usual terminology is Melody/Middle Drone/Bass Drone.
  5. DAd and DAA are so very close that hardly anyone ever tries to build specifically for either of those tunings; and then they aren't using Mean Tone intonation and they are among a handful of those building traditional olde tyme replicas and similar instruments of the Pre-Revival era -- not modern dulcimers like McSpad, FolkCraft, etc.. Generally speaking you need two pieces of information and a tool to figure out which strings to use for the tuning you want: You need to know the VSL (Vibrating String Length) between the Nut and Bridge, and the Open tuning you want to use primarily -
  6. Wow! For a 20" VSL that sure has a lot of sound -- both volume and quality; I love the deep bass you've got going there. The sound is probably due to the thin planks all around. Very nice! Dulcimer builders really don't much target tap tone frequency. Only a few builders seriously consider the concept. The dulcimer is more or less the last of the Western "folk instruments" and there has been very little scientific (quantitative rather than qualitative) research into the factors which make the sound of either the "modern dulcimers" like yours or the "traditional dulcemores" like I build
  7. Any reason for bumping the year-and-a-half-old Welcome post up again Alice?
  8. Nice! Good work! Post a sound clip so we can hear it!
  9. Nic Hambas makes some fabulous instruments. he made my first custom MD. If you can post some pix of his bowed dulcimer, it will go a long way towards helping you see it!
  10. When we refer to a hollowed fretboard we mean down the length (except under a strum hollow) turning the fretboard into an inverted U shape. This reduces the mass of the fretboard and gives a tiny bit more soundboard to vibrate. The other hollowing -- crosswise -- is called an arched fretboard. There is no real need for top braces -- the top already has that massive brace (called the fretboard) running down it's length. Some of us re-inforce the area around delicate sound holes with thin pasteboard or veneer on the underside, but true top braces are not necessary.
  11. Where are you from? Nice choice of woods. Build looks very nice. Good job for working from on-line stuff without asking questions first. The build seems over-built by modern techniques -- stub ends of the tuning head inside the box, all those kerf strips, very thick scroll head bits, heavy braces. These days almost no one uses kerf strips unless they are going to install bindings at the side/top and side/back junctions -- the kerf gives you somethings to glue the binding to. Modern glues such as TiteBond are so much stronger than hide glues and earlier glues that there is no need toda
  12. Can't help, Mary, sorry. I'm on the Gulf Coast...
  13. Noter & Drone style, strummed with a pick or plectrum, gives you the most volume for solo play.
  14. Looks really nice, Anthony. Well done!
  15. Registration is closed for 2021. We have 34 attendees!!
  16. Are you just looking for more tab to play? Or interested in the history as well? There are are several good resources for history. What kind of music are you interested in playing? Blue Grass, American Folk, World Folk, Celtic Fiddle Tunes? Anglo-Scottish Ballads? Hymns and other religious music? Americana? There are thousands or resources, depending on what it is you're looking for.
  17. Lodging and activities for the Gathering will be in Anna Smith Hall, where it was last time. The map shows the hall and the Alumni House which is where we take meals...
  18. Registration Deadline For The Berea Traditional Dulcimore Gathering is May 15th! No "at the gate" Registrations allowed.
  19. The schedule for the 2021 Berea Traditional Dulcimore Gathering has now been added to TheTraditionalAppalachianDulcimer.com In the Gathering Thread. Registration Deadline 15 May 2021 THURSDAY Registration 8-5 on the Porch. Impromptu porch jamming and discussions. Dinner 6:30 General Gathering Welcome and Introductions. Also Grand Dulcimer Display 7:30 until... Mini-Concert/Open Mic – Open to anyone who wants to perform. FRIDAY Breakfast 9-10:30 Traditional Playing Foundations 10:30-12 Open Jam Lunch 1:30-3:00 Making and Installing Staple Frets 3:00-4:30 - Sawn Frame Dulcimers Dinne
  20. Probably best to post this in the Classified section... not here in the Playing section.
  21. I've built a couple hundred over the years, and have half a dozen around the house just now. And... I have a new/old build in progress -- my interpretation of a Pre-Revival dulcimer from Ohio. It's addictive, I tell ya!
  22. N-I-C-E! Great job. You've got "the bug" now!
  23. So now we know.... Dwayne builds arched fretboards.
  24. Not sure what Dwayne at Bear Meadows does with openings in the top; like KWL I've never looked that close. I can't think of anyone who builds arched or scalloped fretboards who also opens the top under the arches. I've built both, and as far as I can tell the acoustic effect of one technique over the other is negligible. IMHO the primary reason to hollow or scallop a fretboard is to reduce the mass of that huge block of wood, so that it can physically vibrate better and send those vibrations into the body where they become sound. For simplicity of construction I prefer the hollowed fr
  25. Dave is that an old Hughes Co. Church Dulcimer? I used to have one of those decades ago!
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